There are fifteen photos illustrating whitetail taxidermy how-to on this page.
SETTING ANTLERS ON ONE OF THE REAL DEER FORMS WITH ZANESVILLE, OHIO
REAL DEER FORMS™ Whitetail Deer Taxidermy Forms
are available from
Kinston, North Carolina
Phone Toll Free 1-888-527-8722
If you would like to contact Dan for any full service taxidermy, he is available 9 to 5 week days, and during Ohio's deer season at anytime. Phone Dan Jenning's Taxidermy at 1-740-849-2255
Dan continues, "I use to use Bondo to set my skull caps, that added a lot of extra time in getting everything lined up and fitted, and an extra expense.
Another thing I would do is to keep running the skull plate through a bandsaw trying to get it to line up and fit. There are easier ways.
Here's the way I do it now.
Instead of fighting the bone, I cut the foam with a small keyhole saw, and then sculpt the transition union back in with clay!"
"The way I get my measurement for the fit is to lay the cape out flat, and then measure from the back eye corner to the hole where the antler burr was. I want at least an 1/8" less, and preferably not quite a 1/4" to allow for the shrinkage that will come about because the cape was over stretched in this area when it was thinned."
"My main concern is to get the skull lined up properly. Antler burr location and pedicle length varies so much from deer to deer you just have to make allowances for the individual deer and accept it that that is the way that deer was.
I make sure that the skull plate is centered up, and lined up from all angles.
I drill a total of five holes in the skull plate to accept my drywall screws.
The first hole is drilled in the center of the skull plate and angled forward. This will allow for drawing the skull plate down to the union at the foam.
The other four holes are two in the front and two in the back. These will allow for even torquing down."
"I use hardwood clothes pins for my shimming wedges. With the shims trimmed and everything lined up, I just start the torquing sequence with the screw in the top center, and draw the other screws down as needed."
In one of our phone conversations, Dan had said, "Semi-sneaks are one of the easiest poses to get a cape on, but this form was especially user friendly."
I reminded Dan, "I told ya it was going to be as easy as sliding on yer sock."
Dan exclaims, "You DID say that, didn't you!"
Here's Dan, torquing down his skull cap. The photo on the right shows the way he test fits for the skin around the antler burrs and at the eye.
Two views showing the use of potter's clay for replacing the missing tissue of the skull.
STOP-ROT, a truly versatile and multiple use taxidermy product.
STOP-ROT was developed as an aid in preventing hair and epidermal slip. STOP-ROT on mammal skins extends the work time of a fresh hide by slowing down or stopping decompositions. It also helps to prevent freezer burn on frozen specimens. A lot of skins and capes that would normally be trashed can be saved with STOP-ROT. Not only has it been stopping epidermal and hair slips, it has also been improving efficiency of acids in the pickle. STOP-ROT makes fleshing and turning much simpler, faster and efficient.
Apply as soon as possible after the animal has been skinned. If it is a frozen skin or cape, apply as soon as possible during and after the thawing process.
STOP-ROT is available on-line from high lighted suppliers!
RESEARCH MANNIKINS 1-800-826-0654,
Van Dyke's Taxidermy Supply 1-800-843-3320,
Wildlife Artist Supply Company
WASCO (McKenzie) 1-800-334-8012
AEWS Taxidermy Supplies 1-800-529-3470
Taxidermy Arts Supply TASCO
USA Foxx and Fur 1-800-usa-foxx
Helping Hand Hanger Steve Hall 1-269-948-2246
Jim Allred Taxidermy Supply 1-800-624-7507
SIVKO FUR, INC. 1-607-698-4827
James Taxidermy Supply (formerly Kings)
1-662-286-5133
Quality Taxidermy Supply 1-888-527-8722
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